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At the edge of the ocean

An intense thunderstorm welcomed the morning, but by the end of breakfast, it had entirely cleared into blue skies scattered with fluffy clouds. It was a good day for exploring Lunenburg.

At the recommendation of fellow B&Bers, we spent much of the day at the Fisheries museum, which was remarkably large and interesting, given the premise. The aquarium was full of the sort of fish which are catchable in the area. That said, we learned later in the day that hardly any fish-catching boats sail from Lunenburg anymore. Most are scallop trawlers, and there's a healthy lobster season come winter. Between the different parts of the Maritimes, lobsters are in season all year. The largest fish in the aquarium were halibut which, apparently, are the largest flat fish available in the area, if not the world, and can grow to be up to 700 pounds with teeth, very dangerous to human adults.

There were several old boats to explore, large fishing ones, one wooden, one iron. I learned about fishing boat practices, how dories were stacked and used, where scallops are harvested and what they look like intact, how newly-built boats are launched, and the developing stages of deep-sea fishing. There was a boat shop, where the staff builds boats by traditional (read: 19th century) methods. The keel of one was nearly finished, about as large as the space could feasibly handle. We finally learned why the Bluenose is so famous.

Afterwards, we went on a lobster and seal tour. As part of a scientific project involving tagging and sampling the blood of lobsters, all the catch was thrown back - but before it was, I learned how to hold a wild lobster to keep it from clawing or kicking with its tail, and how to throw it back in the water. I held a very tiny starfish, and a non-aggressive Jacob's crab. I saw lots of seals sunbathing on a reef. It was a good trip.

Dinner was as good as we've had in a very long time. In case I don't get around to writing it up any time soon - if you're in Lunenburg and are up for a very nice meal indeed, I recommend Fleur de Sel.

Tomorrow, I'll be driving up to the Annapolis Valley.


( 6 comments — Leave a comment )
Aug. 10th, 2004 02:05 am (UTC)
I've really enjoyed your Nova Scotia posts. They take me right back to a road trip I did with a Halifax friend about four years ago.

One question though: Have you got the right web address for the Lunenberg Fleur de sel? Because the link seems to point to a B&B in British Columbia...!
Aug. 10th, 2004 06:16 am (UTC)
No, the website is entirely wrong. They advertisede a website (.net, I think) but it's under construction and so useless. I actually looked around for it last night, to no avail, forgetting in the process I'd gone ahead and made the link before fact-checking. Thank you for letting me know and glad you're enjoying the travel reports!
Aug. 10th, 2004 08:45 am (UTC)
Lobsters kick? You really do learn something new every day. You've definitely made Nova Scotia a must-visit on our next .ca trip.
Aug. 13th, 2004 02:39 pm (UTC)
Kicking is a sort of relative description, since they don't do it with their legs so much as their tail. It sure looked like one-legged kicking to me.
Aug. 10th, 2004 09:25 am (UTC)
Wow, you are doing so many more fun things in Nova Scotia than I did, the time I went there. I am enjoying reading about them, but a little jealous! ;-)
Aug. 13th, 2004 02:40 pm (UTC)
It'll just give you more reasons to go back! I think we'll be going back one of these years. I read about so many interesting things which I never had a chance to do.
( 6 comments — Leave a comment )