Via dianawynnejones, I read the enthusiastic review that festival attendee vladimirsever posted. Here is the relevant portion of his post.
Oh, and afterwards, we lined up for this Hauro no ugoku shiro movie. It was the only screening where we were searched for videocameras, and the Palagalileo was filled to the brim in no time. Then they announced over the PA that we are about to witness the world premiere screening of the new Hayao Miyazaki movie. And they brought the lights down, but I'm sure you could've seen me glow in the dark, down there.
From the huge applause that greeted the Studio Ghibli logo, to the huger applause after the movie ended, I was afraid to blink and miss something. It's that good. Yes, it's a Diana W. Jones story, but it's total Miyazaki through and through. From the beautifully-realised steampunk world of 19th century Europe, to the amazing, gilliamesque Castle itself, to Howl, who fights his battles far away from our eyes, to the wonderfully funny Calcifer, the spirit of fire, to the central story of a plain 18-y-old girl who falls under a spell and is transformed into a 90-y-old, it's a huge procession of OMG OMG OMG and more squee from my rusty old heart than Johnny Depp, bless his soul, could ever entice. It took a really schmaltzy Japanese pop song over the ending scene and credits to make me snap out of it. Howl is as good as Mononoke or Spirited Away, even though it has a more unequivocal happy ending. I can't wait for it to be unleashed onto the world - and feel so pride to have been there.