Afterward, in the fading afternoon, we went to a frantoio, where olives are pressed the "traditional" industrial way. It's a small family operation, with the extended family in residence in the surrounding buildings. It was clean, compact, and redolent of grassy olive intensity.
Here is a photo of the first pressing: enormous granite millstones turn at speed, each rotating around its own axis and the joined axis at the center of the vat.
The crushed olives are then crushed again, beneath hundreds of kilograms of pressure, separating the oil from the olive paste which can then be used for tapenades and such. A final round of machining clarifies the oil.
Our incredibly dense day wasn't over. Our hosts took us back to their home as night fell.
Then we were off, too soon, for another meal, pizza at another friend's restaurant. Had we only more appetite with which to do it justice....